Viviane Faver
During the event, prominent experts from the coffee sector gathered in New York to discuss the future of coffee production, with a focus on two key topics: social development and the need to adapt to climate change.
Organized by illycaffè at the UN headquarters, the panel discussion featured the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award 2023, with notable participants including Vanessa Facenda, editor-in-chief of Tea & Coffee magazine, Vanusia Nogueira, Executive Director of the International Coffee Organization, Andrea Illy, president of illycaffè and co-president of the Regenerative Society Foundation, Jeffrey Sachs, economist and co-president of the Regenerative Society Foundation, Oscar Schaps, president of the Latin America division of Trading StoneX Financial Inc. and commodities trader, and Glaucio De Castro, president of the Cerrado Mineiro Coffee Growers Federation
Coffee stands as one of the most crucial agricultural commodities, providing livelihoods for millions of families working on small farms. Approximately 12.5 million agricultural holdings, primarily managed by small farmers, operate on a few hectares of land. The majority of these holdings, 95%, have a maximum of five hectares, with 84% covering an area of less than two hectares.
Despite its significance, the coffee industry faces challenges, particularly low and volatile coffee prices over the past two decades, impacting farming communities significantly. This issue is particularly relevant for producers in countries contributing 15% of global volumes, such as those in Africa and Central America. The progress achieved in recent decades through the ‘de-commoditization’ of cafe culture is at risk of reversal due to the looming threat of climate change.
Experts estimate that around $10 billion would be required over the next decade for regenerative agriculture, offering both environmental and health benefits. Given the limited economic-financial capacity of producer countries, the activation of private-public partnerships becomes imperative to mobilize international supply chain funds. Although discussions on this project have already taken place with key stakeholders, practical implementation is necessary.
Vanusia Nogueira, Executive Director of the ICO, emphasizes the responsibility of leaders in the coffee sector to seek alternatives that provide a better life for producers, their families, and the planet. She stresses the need for a collective and pre-competitive effort to address the substantial challenges faced by the industry.
Economist Jeffrey Sachs highlights the importance of true economic development, aiming to transform society sustainably through investments in human capital, physical infrastructure, and business enterprise. He underscores the need to cooperate within communities, nations, and globally to address environmental degradation and work toward sustainable development.
Andrea Illy notes that adaptation to climate change requires improved agronomic practices and the renewal of plantations with more resistant varieties. He expresses hope that regenerative agriculture will become a model for the entire coffee industry. The urgency of supply chain investments is emphasized, emphasizing that delays are no longer acceptable.
For example, one of the winners, Eduardo Dominicale, from Fazenda São Mateus in Brazil, says that one of its most significant differences linked to sustainability is the reuse of drinking water when washing coffee.
Fazenda São Mateus saves 80% to 90% of water thanks to eco filter equipment, which allows water to be filtered and impurities removed. At the end of the process, the water and coffee waste are sent to compost for transformation into fertilizer, which, in turn, is used in coffee plantations. A sustainable cycle that avoids wasting natural resources.
“Another measure adopted by the farm is drip irrigation.
As the name suggests, the operation is based on dripping water directly onto the plant’s root. The drippers extend throughout the crop, thus allowing uniform irrigation of the coffee plantation. This feature is beneficial as it provides greater consumption control, avoids water wastage in irrigated areas, and drives in areas with more significant drought. The farm also has an area with many springs for which preservation actions are maintained to contribute to the planet’s sustainability”, explains Eduardo Dominicale.
He adds that the adoption of more sustainable measures in the field reflects a demand that comes from consumers who seek products made with respect for the environment and socially fair relationships with the rest of the production chain. Companies are connected to the ESG agenda and adopt more transparent practices daily.
“The Farm has a project with Nestlé that includes 1,600 thousand avocado trees among the coffee plantations to shade the crop, help recycle nutrients, and sequester carbon from the atmosphere. Humidity and temperature data are monitored in research with the consultancy ReNature, hired by Nestlé.
It also has a project to plant species in the middle of crops that attract insects that are natural enemies of pests common to coffee and thus favor the use of pesticides.
THE ONLY WOMAN AMONG THE WINNERS
This year’s winner of the award is Philotée Mukiza, the representative of Ngororero Coffee Washing from Rwanda, who is not only the first but also the only woman to be in contention.
In an exclusive interview, she talks about her journey in this sector.
“I am from Rwanda. I worked at Rwalf Export LTD as a production manager. Today, we won the Ernesto Illy International Coffee Award.”
Why did you choose to make a living with coffee? Was it for passion or for something else?
“At the beginning, I didn’t know much about coffee. I was just a fresh graduate looking for a job. However, I became more interested in what I was learning. I am now more passionate about what I do on a daily basis. This is because I’ve seen the significant impact of our work on our farmers and their families at an international level. Now, I feel more comfortable with my job.”
According to you, why are you the first woman to win these two important Awards?
“Sincerely, I don’t know. Perhaps it was just a coincidence. I don’t think that the reason for this winning is related to the fact that I’m a woman. It’s thanks to the quality of the coffee that we presented during the cupping.”
What is so special about your coffee? Rwanda isn’t really known until now for its role as a coffee producer. What has changed?
“Firstly, there’s a natural factor – the altitude and the climate. But what we do from farm to drying living farm matters. This year, we tried a new processing strategy as the Rwalf coffee team. The techniques that farmers use daily involve soaking, which wasn’t really used years ago. Now, we are doing that, and it significantly changes the final result in the cup.”
What about the women who usually have a specific role in the coffee chain because they work on the farm?
“In Rwanda, there are several women’s cooperatives in most coffee stations. We work with them not only regarding coffee processes but also in activities that involve their daily lives. We support them in improving in other sectors and provide training to develop different skills.”
Has it been difficult to rise to the top of the coffee chain, becoming a manager as a woman?
“I started with a job that required hard work. It was more challenging for a woman because some activities in coffee, especially field activities, are located in very rural areas. Moving on motorcycles and walking isn’t easy for me. Sometimes, I acted like a man. I walked with men, and now we feel like a team.”
Future plans?
“We need to continue sustaining what we’re doing now, especially regarding quality. It’s important for us to meet people’s needs in cupping. Also, we want to continue working with local farmers, helping them to get more activities to improve their incomes.”
Can your coffee be appreciated by an Italian customer?
“I think the taste is not familiar to an Italian customer because it’s unique in its genre. In fact, coffee in Rwanda has a different taste in cupping. It’s something new that can be appreciated even if it doesn’t exactly mirror the traditional Italian taste.”
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